SATA's Guatemala Fam Trip (May 2009)
By Lisbeth Holt
SATA members were privileged to participate in an exceptionally inspiring fam trip to Guatemala, May 26 – 30, 2009, a trip sponsored by Antigua-based Viaventure and led by brilliant artist-archaeologist Jose Antonio Gonzalez. The trip took us to the highlands of Guatemala, specifically Antigua, Lake Atitlan and Chichicastenango.
Guatemala is a land of unrivalled beauty. Yes, its volcanic verdant landscapes and mysterious, glimmering Lake Atitlan; its historical pageantry in treasured Mayan archaeological sites, amazing indigenous villages and the captivating cobblestoned colonial city of Antigua with its romantic ruins of convents, cathedrals and exquisite hostelries; the shopping for finely-spun textiles and exotic jewelry; the spring-like climate…yet more than all of these, it is the people of this alluring land, the Guatemalans whom even jaded travelers can never forget! They are a gentle, artistic, resourceful people: people with soul!
We began our explorations in Antigua, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a 30-mile distance from the airport in Guatemala City. First on our wish list was a visit to Casa Santo Domingo, a hotel par excellence of 128 handsomely furnished rooms and amazing antiquities adorning the walls at every turn. The hotel is the perfect setting for weddings, conventions, and for those who wish to bask in a historical ambiance amidst luxuriant gardens. It houses a fabulous museum of religious art from the colonial period, a gallery of rare Mayan antiquities and an exhibition of thought-provoking contemporary paintings and sculptures.
We dined at charming Meson Verde Panza, a 12-room luxurious hostelry, renowned for its sumptuous international cuisine. The Antiguans have been called the “verde panza” or green pants because of their fondness for the avocado!
We overnighted at the exquisite 19-suite El Convento Hotel, situated next to the 18th century Las Capuchinas convent, a ten-minute walk from the main square. Designed by owner/architect Manuel Arzu, each detail reflects an ultra modern interpretation of the love of traditional architecture in stone, wood, and fabrics. We delighted in the skylights, fireplaces, Jacuzzis, private patios, stone tubs and showers, and identified our rooms by the colorful tassel on our keys which matched the one on the beautifully carved wooden door. The bedding with its Egyptian cotton sheets was beyond comfort with even a choice of pillows! The Sitz’ (“delight” in Mayan) Restaurant rates accolades as the artistic presentation matched the divine cuisine served by attentive staff! Who could ask for anything more? This hotel delivers what it promises and more!
The next morning we made our way to fabled Lake Atitlan, a lake whose beauty has been widely extolled as a glorious marvel of creation. And that it is! Surrounded by three volcanic peaks and indigenous villages of authentic charm, its iridescent splendor is undeniable. We plied these waters by boat which resembled the mythical canoe found in Tikal’sTemple I, and carved over a thousand years ago! Yes, we felt like traveling deities, on this wonder-filled passage from Panajachel to the shores of Laguna Lodge Eco-Resort and Nature Reserve, which appeared Shangri-like before us. We were welcomed by its beautiful proprietors, Jeffro and Mayah (yes!) who had created this oasis of splendor. Each of the 12 heavenly rooms faces the lake; furnishings had been lovingly crafted by Guatemalan artisans. After feasting our senses on each fanciful detail, we enjoyed a delectable vegetarian lunch. Then! The adventure-on-the-lake ensued!
When we sailed to the lodge, the waters had been smooth. Choppy waters churned up by afternoon winds whipped about us as we sailed toward the village of San Antonio de Palopo. Rain gear or windbreakers are de rigueur in this environment! We boisterously (and with some relief!) clambered onto the welcoming beach and made time for shopping! How to refuse adorable little children turned merchant?!! Scarves, necklaces, tablecloths found their way into our arms.
We dined on delectable cuisine at Casa Palopo, a mansion transformed into a lovely small hotel with its colonial heritage intact.
The following morning, we breakfasted at Hotel Atitlan where we’d spent the night. The night provided an unexpected thrill for us: a tremor shook our beds at around 2:30 a.m.! This venerable hotel never ceases to satisfy with its traditional warmly decorated 62 rooms overlooking the Lake. The service is impeccable, meals are scrumptious, and the setting jewel-like with its elaborate botanical gardens. And the gift shop tempts with the very highest-quality handicrafts.
We were off to the kaleidoscope of colors in the vast marketplace which is Chichicastenango! Hither and yon we walked, marveling and bartering with merchants! We entered the Santo Tomas church where Mayan and Catholic rituals have melded into a unique form. We visited Hotel Santo Tomas and the Mayan Inn, both longtime favorites with travelers.
Enroute to Antigua, we explored the ancient archaeological site of Iximche, its temples and ceremonial platforms only partially excavated. Founded by the Kaqchikel Maya in 1470, we trod these ancient paths and turned our thoughts to that life of long-ago. Mayan shamans still celebrate sacred rituals here.
Upon our return to Antigua, the Palacio de Dona Leonor had us literally oohing and aahing! Built over 500 years ago, each of the 12 magnificent suites was restored to grandeur seven years ago, each bearing the name of past ancestors (one of whom was Don Pedro de Alvarado, the Spanish conquistador and governor of Guatemala). Jose Antonio remarked that we were like excited little kids running to view each other’s palatial suite!
Posada de Don Rodrigo hosted us for a tasty “typical” dinner. Joyous marimba welcomed us, and we enjoyed viewing folkloric dances by extravagantly clothed dancers!
The next morning after a wonderful breakfast in “our” regal palace, we visited the fabulous Filadelphia Coffee Resort and Spa on the outskirts of Antigua. The 20 spacious beautifully furnished rooms offer tranquility amidst the flourishing coffee plantation in a spectacular setting. We feasted on a sumptuous luncheon while enjoying a perfect view of Agua Volcano.
Before heading to Guatemala City, we visited the fabulous churches of La Merced and San Francisco. In the capital, we visited the Museum Popol Vuh at the Universidad Francisco Marroquin, viewing fantastic sculptures excavated from various archaeological sites. Then on to the ultra-modern Westin Camino Real. Our farewell dinner was held at the Vista Real Hotel, another gorgeous property.
Feel the magic: it’s Guatemala! The colors and smiles and lifestyles are vibrant and soul-stirring. Viaventure’s polished yet warm professionals leave no stone unturned to satisfy your clients! And to guide your most discriminating travelers, ask forJose Antonio; the sojourn to Guatemala is truly unforgettable with his knowledge, wisdom and wit! And our heartfelt thanks to SATA !!!